1990s streetwear
Fashion loves to regularly revisit the minimalist Nineties look, with the MTV generation now heading up many of the independent labels. Inner-city outerwear couture was an East London design signature for Astrid Andersen and Nasir Mazhar, given a post-Soviet twist at Gosha Rubchinskiy.
Oversized shoulders
A fashion earthquake hit Paris Wednesday June 22, when Demna Gvasalia showed his first Balenciaga menswear collection, starting a one-man bid for super-sized shoulders. Bombers, classic overcoats and suit jackets were all cut with extremely wide shoulders for hybrid appeal.
Sportswear alliances
If the news that the Vetements collection was based entirely around collaborations with 18 other brands came as a shock, it shouldn't have. Fashion has always been about alliances and collaborations, led by Comme des GarçonsHomme Plus this season, with a transplant version of the Nike Dunk sneaker, Off-White with Umbro and Gosha Rubchinskiy cozying up to Italian sportswear titans Fila, Sergio Tacchini and Kappa for collaborative pieces that we expect to go cult.
Luxury bondage
It could be the influence of the Nuboyoshi Araki exhibit on in Paris at the moment, or just a rebel move to turn up the temperature for next summer. Either way, one thing is for sure: designers must have scoured the sex shops of Pigalle for inspiration for the harnesses and restraints that appeared on the runway this Fashion Week, raising the sexual tension at Dior Homme and KTZ and accenting with dog collars at Louis Vuitton.
The cap
It-accessory at Balenciaga, Acne Studios and A.P.C., the cap topped all looks as designers played with color and texture; from red to nude via denim and everything in between.
Rope line
When fashion and nature collide, to goes right down to the details. Seen from London to Paris via Milan, designers reworked climbing rope as a fashion piece swinging from tailored suits and jackets at Dior Homme or accessorising karibiners at Lanvin and MSGM.
The backpack
Sportswear gains ground each season and for Summer 2017 the backpack is star of the style show. High luxe at Vuitton or a practical at Prada, backpackers can leave for the airport safe in the knowledge that their style game will on point wherever they end up.
Super short shorts
Not seen since the 1970s, could the ultra short be about to make a comeback for next summer? The jury is out, but while we’re waiting on a fashion consensus, it’s worth noting that we saw pyjama-style versions at Fendi and Comme des Garçons Plus and super short retro sportwear at Gosha Rubchinskiy.
Rainwear
With a rather damp summer so far in Paris, we welcomed rainwear on the runway. A SS17 essential, sheer at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, monogrammed at Louis Vuitton and classic yellow at Gucci.
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